Drip Irrigation - Materials & Equipment
Drip Irrigation | Irrigation supplies, garden irrigation and sprinkler system recommendations.
Drip Irrigation is a low pressure, low flow way of delivering a measured amount of water to general areas, such as groundcover or specific plant and tree species. The irrigation pipes typically run on top of the landscape bed.
Some specially designed drip lines are designed to run underground, but are susceptible to rodent damage. Most systems can be run beneath coarse mulch very successfully.
- Minimized fertilizer/nutrient loss due to localized
application and reduced leaching.
- High water efficiency.
- Ability to irrigate irregular shaped beds & lawn
areas.
- Allows safe use of recycled water
- Moisture is applied directly to the root zone
- Soil type plays a less important role in frequency of
irrigation.
- Minimized soil erosion.
- Highly uniform distribution of water i.e., controlled by
output of each
nozzle.
- The labor cost to install is minimal - in fact, most
homeowners can install their own systems.
- Variation in supply can be regulated by regulating the valves
and drippers.
- Fertilization can easily be included with minimal waste of
fertilizers.
- Foliage remains dry thus reducing the risk of disease.
- Usually operated at lower pressure than other types of
pressurized
irrigation, reducing energy costs.
- Expense: Initial cost can be higher than an overhead system.
- Clogging: If the water is not properly filtered and the
equipment not
properly maintained, it can result in clogging.
- Drip irrigation might be unsatisfactory if herbicides or top
dressed
fertilizers need sprinkler irrigation for activation.
Pump
or Pressurized Water Source
This would be your water source from a well or municipal system.
Pressure Reducing Valve This valve reduces pressure from the source feeding the irrigation system. Normally you want to maintain about 40psi for your drip system for best operation. Too high and you will blow out components. If it's too low and you will not have proper emitter operation. I prefer the adjustable type regulator valve, which allows fine tuning later on.
Isolation
Valves
These valves allow you to manually shut down 
parts of the system for
maintenance purposes. Your main valve at the source of the water is
called the main shutoff valve. Branch shut-offs are only used for very
large systems, so you may only be using the main valve on your system.
Water
Filter(s)Media
& Screen Filters 
These are very important in drip irrigation systems as drip lines have
very small holes that can clog easily if you don't
filter. EVERY system should be filtered, no matter how clean you feel
the source water system is.
Fertilization Systems (Optional) Not to many residential systems employ this option. It has a fertilizer reservoir and disperses liquid fertilizer throughout the drip system.
Back-flow Preventer A back-flow preventer in an absolute requirement for drip systems. 
It
prevents contaminates from feeding back into the potable water source.
It is placed at the main irrigation line where the water from the water
source branches off to the irrigation system. Usually a 3/4" back-flow
preventer will meet the needs of most irrigation systems, even if you
have 1" pipe for your main water feed to your live lateral.
Main
Water Line This 
is the section of PVC or poly pipe that leads from the water
source to the zone control valves. You will typically have a live home
run tube that runs around the perimeter of your system. This will
probably be a 1-1/2" poly pipe and is continuously "live" or has water
flow available at all times
Zone Control Valves
I would recommend electrically operated zone control valves. They are
hooked up to your irrigation controller with low voltage wiring. The
zone control valves are best grouped together and placed in a
accessible manhole or plastic access box. These valves also attach
"inline" to each irrigation zone.
Branch
Lateral Poly pipe
(usually 1/2" dia.) Although typically used in larger drip systems this pipe connects the
zone control valve to the drip system piping or emitters piping.
Poly
fittings and
Accessories (to make connections) Emitting Devices and Drip TubingThe emitters are what controls the water flow to the plants. There are 2 types of emitters. The first type is built into the drip tubing and delivers about one gallon of water per hour. The second type of emitter is the kind that attaches to the tube by screwing or snapping into the tubing. Typically, the drip emitters are spaced at 18" o.c. You will find some variation to this though.
Irrigation Emitter Piping with built-in emitters. This pipe is available in 100' rolls and has
the built-in emitters spaced at 18" o.c.. Use barbed tees for
connections.
Drip irrigation systems are the most efficient method of watering our plant beds. Drip systems are typically rated at 90% efficient or higher.
This exact number is dependent on just where the drip system is installed. If you lay it on top of the ground it is a bit less efficient. Systems installed beneath a mulch layer are fare more efficient.
Be careful if installing the system under mulch. If you have a yard full of moles, voles or other burrowing critters, they love to chew on these systems, giving you many headaches. If you want to eliminate your mole problem go HERE.
The reason these systems are so efficient is that they deliver the water directly to the root zone of the plants. This not only minimizes water evaporation, it minimizes diseases that result from wet vegetation, typically as a result of too much overhead spraying.
Do note, however, that most plants do enjoy an overhead shower occasionally and if you go through a period of drought, you should take a hose and sprayer attachment and give your plants a welcome bath to wash off contaminates etc.
Drip systems are a relatively easy install for the home do-it-yourselfer to accomplish. You will need minimal tools for a professionally installed system.
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